24 Mar 2015

Review of a Cuban paladar: Don QKo is worth the drive to Cárdenas!

The following is a review I wrote that has been posted on TripAdvisor (here), along with eight of my photos and reviews by others who also loved this little gem of a restaurant, near Varadero. For your reading convenience, I've copied my review below and added a few different photos than you will find on TripAdvisor….

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While visiting in the Matanzas province of Cuba recently, I had the pleasure of exploring Cárdenas and dining at an excellent paladar called Don QKo. This privately owned restaurant is billed as “an Oasis in the City of Cárdenas” and the title is quite accurate.

The original Don QKo, Alexeis' grandfather. 
Owned and operated by Alexeis Padrón and his family, this culinary oasis was named for his grandfather, whose nickname was “QKo” or “cuco,” which translates to “cuckoo.” Although the inference to most English speakers is that a person with such a nickname would be a little crazy, the Spanish word is used to imply that someone is shrewd, canny or a “wily bird.” In Spanish, of course, “Don” is a title of respect.

All of the tasteful decorations and furnishings of the elegant and charming restaurant have been personally chosen or created by Alexeis and his father Jesus Padrón (also known as QKo, like his father before him). Indeed, this father-and-son team takes a very hands-on approach to all aspects of their business; I found Jesus painting the baño when I went to make a pitstop!

Their attention to detail is apparent everywhere and, according to TV reporter Patricia Karina (Alexeis’ wife), the Padrón men have done much of the work themselves – not just the painting. The main areas of the restaurant are primarily done in yellow and black, with floral arrangements, interesting artwork and touches of red and green accent colors throughout. Most of the tables and chairs are classic black wrought iron but some of the other furniture was custom made.

Approximately 100 people can be seated at one time, outside on the patio or inside in the bar/lounge area or one of the small dining rooms, if a more intimate setting is preferred. The patio encircles a little pool and is dotted with lush plants. It also has a decorative fishpond at one side and affords a view of the kitchen, Alexeis pointed out, so people can see their food being prepared.

One of the inside dining areas, elegantly decorated.
The menu options range from traditional roasted pork (a specialty of the house) to a selection of seafood, all prepared and presented with great care. As I was speaking with Alexeis, in fact, I could watch one of his chiefs at work, carefully slicing meat to be roasted on the open-air grill. In addition to their delicious food – I had a sumptuous serving of roast pork with an excellent, savory sauce – the bar offers a nice selection of drinks, including another house specialty: a mojito with a twist. It’s quite tasty but I won’t give their secret away by telling you what the extra ingredient is; you’ll have to visit Don QKo to find out!

Founded in 1828, Cárdenas is not far from Varadero and could be considered a bedroom community for that bustling beach burg. It is one of Cuba’s most affluent cities and, with a population of close to 81,000, is the 15th largest in the country but, perhaps ironically, it has very little tourist accommodation. The city of Varadero, on the other hand, has less than 30,000 year-round residents, but tourists perpetually populate its many hotels and eateries.

Dining on the patio by the pool is a great evening option.
Those who want to escape the crowds, explore new terrain and give their tastebuds a true treat should plan a visit to Don QKo in Cárdenas, which is about 30 km from Varadero. Located at Ave. Céspedes #1001, esq. Calle 21 (at the corner of 21st Street), you can take a private taxi or, if you are feeling more adventurous, a public bus. If you wish to get more specific directions, call the restaurant: (045) 52 4572.

Meals are typically served from noon until 11 p.m., and they’re closed on Tuesdays. I was there for a late-afternoon lunch and it was quite quiet but, in the evening, when the lights go on and the live music begins, the place is much busier. Therefore, if you want to be assured of a seat, especially if you have a group, I would encourage making a reservation.

I’m sure you won’t be disappointed with the service, cuisine or ambience at Don QKo. It’s a delightful dining oasis that is definitely worth the drive to Cárdenas!

A copy of this famous painting adorns a wall in the lounge.
– Jenny Cressman


16 Mar 2015

Here's our updated agenda for the April 8 trip to Marea del Portillo!

AGENDA for “Jennica 2015” April 8-15 group

All departures are from the Marea Hotel lobby, unless otherwise specified, & all activities are free (included in your trip package) unless a price is noted.

Wednesday

Express check-in for group upon arrival

Robertico

Thursday 
11:30 a.m. - Private group orientation session (meet in Marea lobby) – select an entrée for our Welcome Dinner, confirm participation in Las Coloradas Tour, etc.

6 p.m. - Welcome Dinner with music by Robertico & pals; part of your package.

Friday
8:30 a.m. to noon - Three Village Tour – one of the most popular optional excursions offered by the resort; sign up & pay on your own at resort, 20 CUC.

5 p.m. - Sunset Cruise - mainly for our group but not exclusively; part of pkg.

Las Coloradas Playa & Campismo
Saturday
8:30 a.m. to approx. 4:30 p.m. - Las Coloradas Tour – features Cuban history, nature hike & beach party picnic; boxed lunch & drinks provided as part of pkg.

PLUS, a brief stop in Niquero on the return trip for a photography exhibit!

Sunday &/or Monday

9 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. - Cayo Blanco – your package includes 2 trips to this lovely island & 1 lobster lunch; there will be other food for lunch too, freshly prepared.

Sunday – NOW CONFIRMED!

5 p.m. – Art Show & Dinner at Ferlin’s – going to a home & restaurant in the Marea village by horse carriage; sign up with & pay Jenny; 20 CUC should cover carriage ride & dinner for us & artists (as our guests) …buying art is up to you!

Kayaking with Gord
Tuesday

8:30-11:30 a.m. - Guided Kayak Tour (meet at Dive Shop) – going in the mangrove to look for manatee; 6 people only & weather permitting - must be a calm day.

Wednesday

Say good-bye & try not to cry!

NOTE: Horse riding & other fun activities will be available throughout the week.

Those staying a second week will be on their own to sign up for excursions, etc.

15 Feb 2015

More activities for April 8 group trip!

The April 8 group trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo just keeps getting better and better! In addition to what's already listed under the "Activities" tab, a few more things are in the works to round out our proposed agenda. (Keep in mind, of course, that everything is optional!)

2012 art show near the Mirador,
hosted at a private home.
It looks like we'll be able to have a private art show at a home in the Marea del Portillo village, followed by dinner at Ferlin's restaurant. (Scroll down to see my review of this restaurant below.) Details have yet to be confirmed regarding day, time and location. However, the show will be similar to one hosted in 2012, featuring work by young up-and-coming artists from the area.

As well, I've just found out that there is a photography show going on in Niquero, which we should be able to attend on our way back from our Las Coloradas Tour on Saturday. The photographer is a German man who is a friend Leicy, our guide for this excursion and a good friend of mine, and I've seen some samples of his work. This should be a very good show, and Leicy's daughter may be featured in some of the photos!

I'll post more details when I have them.

11 Jan 2015

My recent Trip Advisor review of Club Amigo Marea del Portillo + photos!

After every trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, my favourite little resort in southern Cuba, I make a point of writing a review. I wrote this one after my November 2014 group trip.

I try to do what I can to help promote this lovely place because I think it is a truly wonderful spot but also, more importantly, because the resort is the single largest employer in the entire region and, if this resort does not do well, a lot of families will find it difficult to survive. There are simply not many options for work in this rural, rather isolated region. 

You can read my review below (with captioned photos!) or go to the Trip Advisor website (here's a link) where my review is now posted, along with all the other reviews I've written over the years – about my "second home" and a few other places.

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You get more than you pay for at Marea del Portillo!

Club Amigo Marea del Portillo is a small, friendly resort situated on the southern shore of Cuba, nestled in the foothills of the historic and majestic Sierra Maestra mountains.

The main part of the resort sits on a secluded horseshoe bay and is comprised of a few dozen cabañas and two hotels, the Marea del Portillo and the Farallón del Caribe – accommodating about 280 in total. The smaller Marea hotel and the cabañas are beach level and just steps from the ocean, while the larger, slightly more upscale Farallón hotel is positioned atop a hill and offers stunning views from every room. 

The cabañas in the Marea section of the resort are all level
with the beach and most have an ocean view.
Although generally rated as a 3 or 3.5 star facility, some folks I’ve spoken with feel it should be rated higher; I say it has a 5-star heart. The cleanliness and service are definitely top-notch and the natural beauty of the setting can’t be beat. The food is always well-presented, fresh and abundant, featuring local fish and organic produce from the area. People say ‘you get what you pay for’ but, at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, I think you get more than you pay for.

I initially started going to this resort in 2009 because it was the cheapest place I could find for a winter escape to a sunny beach. I have continued going there because it is such a lovely spot and the people are so wonderful – both resort staff and families in the community! In 2011, I began to lead groups there twice a year and, now, many of my friends have become repeat visitors like me.

The Marea hotel dining room and new hot buffet, photographed
soon after the recent renovation work was done.
Every time my friends and I return, we comment on the improvements that have been made since our last visit. During the past two years, a lot of renovation work has been going on, mainly in the beach-level section of the resort. The Marea hotel, dining room and pool area have had the most visible upgrading, and it all looks great! Changes to the dining room include the reorganization of the buffet and addition of large steamer tables to keep more food hot, as well as new décor. (I’ve written in more detail about these renovations in other Trip Advisor reviews, which you can find on my website: www.jennicacuba.com – see links in the blog archives at the righthand side of the page for April 2014 and Dec. 2013.)

Another significant upgrade was pending when I visited in November 2014, and I’ve heard since that it is now up and running. This one, however, is not visible. I’m referring to Wifi – wireless Internet service is now available at Marea del Portillo! Wifi access is possible in common areas like the hotel lobby and around the pool. My on-site source told me they are also working on setting up Wifi at the Farallón del Caribe hotel and, eventually, at the Punta Piedra hotel too. (Punta Piedra is located about 6 kms down the road but is technically part of the Club Amigo Marea del Portillo resort complex.)

Wifi Internet service is now available in certain parts of the
Marea hotel section, including the pool area.
I don’t know if having Wifi will mean that the resort’s star-count will go up to 4 now but, to me, that’s a minor detail. I love this place because it surpasses expectations. The friendly, welcoming staff members routinely go out of their way to make one’s stay enjoyable and memorable. The peacefulness of the place and the beautiful scenery surrounding the resort are second to none, and I feel rejuvenated by every visit. 

How can soul restoration be anything less than 5 stars?

5 Jan 2015

My latest TripAdvisor review: Ferlin's

Ferlin’s restaurant consistently provides great service & excellent food

Insider tip – try the stuffed fish & plantain chips

Whenever my friends and I are staying in the area, dining at Ferlin’s restaurant in the village of Marea del Portillo is a must – and we usually must go more than once!

Fernando Acuña
Most people visiting this part of southern Cuba stay at a lovely little resort known as Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, which is comprised of two hotels and a handful of cabañas. Although the hotels offer plenty of delicious food at their buffets, restaurants and snack bars, it’s fun to venture off the resort property and sample some local cuisine, and Ferlin’s is the best place to do so. 

Located in the quaint village of Marea del Portillo, about 2 kms from the resort, this authentic Cuban paladar (a privately owned restaurant) provides safe, inexpensive dining that is sure to be both memorable and delectable. The owners combined their names, Fernando and Erlin, to name their restaurant, and their combined experience at the resort means they know how to properly handle and prepare food, as well as how to provide great service. Fernando has been a chef at Club Amigo Marea del Portillo for many years and Erlin is a long-time member of the wait staff.

Erlin Mara Hernández
Although they now operate a restaurant at their home, Erlin and Fernando continue to work at the resort. They have hired and trained a small crew to cook and serve, which means that their enterprise is also an asset to the local economy, creating more jobs in an area where very few employment opportunities exist. Good for them – and good for you, when you choose to dine there!

Ferlin’s offers a palate-pleasing choice of entreés, including lobster, the most expensive item on the menu; it’s about 7 or 8 Cuban convertible pesos (known as CUCs – which are very close to being at par with the U.S. dollar). Shrimp, fish, pork and chicken are also generally on the menu, as well as shrimp or lobster cocktails, fresh salads, rice or congri (rice and black beans – a standard Cuban dish) and crispy chicharitas (fried, salted plantain chips). Ferlin’s chicharitas, in fact, are some of the best you’ll find anywhere!

For those not entirely familiar with Cuban cuisine, but interested in trying something a little different, one entreé you should sample is the stuffed fish. Ferlin’s version of this classic dish is excellent! The fish is stuffed with ham and cheese, lightly battered and deep-fried. And, since Marea del Portillo is a fishing village, you can be sure the fish is fresh.

Don't forget to check out the crafts!
All the food at Ferlin’s is very fresh and much of it is from the area – some produce they serve is from an organic farm at the edge of the village, which you may notice when are en route from the resort. Tourists are often warned to be careful about eating off-resort food but you don’t need to worry about dining at Ferlin’s. They always use treated water in their kitchen, Erlin has told me, and the facility undergoes regular government health inspections.

Erlin and Fernando have definitely found their niche, but they’re not the sort of people who rest on their laurels. Every time my friends and I visit, we see something new. They always seem to be doing things to improve the place physically, such as adding a fountain or building a decorative wall. And, to enhance your overall experience, there is also a craft table that offers an interesting selection of souvenirs, including some made by the woman who runs the kiosk.

I would heartily encourage you to seek out Ferlin’s restaurant in the Marea del Portillo village and treat yourself to an excellent meal. Your taste buds will thank you!

[Here's the link to the review on TripAdvisor: http://www.tripadvisor.ca/ShowUserReviews-g1404717-d3807579-r246721818-Ferlin-Pilon_Granma_Province_Cuba.html]

NOTE: The restaurant's phone number is (53) (23) 59-7070 - reservations are a good idea if you are taking a group. 

31 Dec 2014

It's not too late to join me in Cuba April 8 - booking extended to Feb. 8

Want to join me at "my second home" in Marea del Portillo Hotels & Resorts CUBA April 8? You have until Feb. 8 to take advantage of this exclusive all-inclusive trip package! 

This is an awesome opportunity that you won't find anywhere else because I arranged a special excursion to Las Coloradas that is included in the price, as well as other perks & activities. Most are noted on the poster but, in addition, our group will have express check-in service, which has been arranged just for us. 

As usual, we'll also have a guided kayak tour in the mangrove to look for manatee, weather permitting, & there will be lots of opportunities for biking, hiking, etc.

19 Dec 2014

Even my American cousins can go to Cuba with me! (as always, actually)

Do you recognize the beach below? 
If not, maybe you need to go to Cuba with me!
Gord & I will be there in April but we won't be wearing knitted caps.




Anyone can go to Cuba with me - even Americans! (as always)

It is incredibly heartening to learn that relations between the U.S. and Cuba are finally being relaxed a little! I hope that this will, in the coming years, improve the lives and opportunities of the Cuban people. And, in case you didn't know, U.S. passport holders have always been able to travel with me from Toronto as part of the JennicaCuba trips - and quite a few have already done so.

Do you want to join my "Jennica 2015" group trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo, flying from Toronto to Manzanillo de Cuba? You still can! I will be able to add people at the same great price until Feb. 8, as long as there's space!

I will look forward to seeing you whenever, wherever and, hopefully, hanging out with you in Cuba one of these days! Meanwhile….

Feliz Navidad y Año Nuevo!
Jenny