My latest trip... Cuba struggles on

 

TRIP REPORT: Chugging like a Moskvich

 

Cuba struggles on. Like a Moskvich engine that sputters and stalls but, somehow, keeps restarting and running roughly, Cuba limps along. Some parts of the country are doing better than others but, in the Granma province, where my heart is embedded, the hardships seem to be compounding daily.

 

During my most recent brief visit (Feb. 22-March 8), I stayed at the Marea del Portillo resort for the beginning and end of my trip but moved into a casa in Pilón for the middle chunk of time. A key reason for this shift in accommodation was because of transportation costs and concerns. Since many people I wanted to see live in Pilón, it made more sense to stay there and bike or walk around the town rather than rely on taxis that are increasingly expensive – if they are even able to get the vital elixir needed to keep rolling.

 

Fuel is in short supply and, like many other necessities, often erratically available. During my time in Pilón, the home were I was staying initially used a generator but, when fuel ran out, we were bereft of electricity. One day, the electric outage extended for 16-ish hours. Other days, the power came and went in shorter spans but, typically, the pattern was like a line of stitches sewn by a blind person. Sometimes, the power came on in time to cook dinner but, often, it went off while you were trying to cook or eat. Thus, people needed to be prepared to cook outside, using wood or charcoal, if it was available.

 

Frequently, the power would come on for a few hours during the night, sending people scrambling to plug in appliances and anything that needed to be recharged. I highly recommend taking a battery bank as a back-up for recharging phones, flashlights/lamps and other devices. My little battery bank helped keep phones from completely dying, and allowed me to keep my rechargeable fan going throughout the night. Even though it was not inordinately hot most nights, the fan was my best defense against mosquitoes that always attacked under the cover of darkness, despite closing the louvered windows as tightly as possible at dusk.

 

 

On this trip, the electricity was noticeably absent for more time than it was present. Even at the Marea del Portillo resort, there were a few hiccups in the power supply. I’m not sure if they were rationing fuel for the generators there or had temporarily run out. The problem, unfortunately, is endemic throughout the country. One article I read recently in Havana Times (dated March 7) noted that most of the Turkish power barges, which had been boosting the national electricity grid for several years, have now left. It seems that Cuba will be trying to rely more heavily on their own aging thermal power plants, in conjunction with 55 newly constructed solar parks that have been made possible by a deal with China.

 

Other reports I’ve been reading – most particularly, in a reputable Facebook group called “Cuba Travel Tips” – suggest that some parts of Cuba are experiencing an economic uptick. My street-level experience in Pilón contradicts that. In addition to fuel, many normally ubiquitous food supplies are hard to come by on a regular basis. I didn’t eat as much congri as I have on other trips because rice was scarce and the preferred type of beans for that common Cuban dish were essentially absent.

 

Eggs were as scarce as hen’s teeth and, if they could be found, were expensive. On a day trip to Bayamo, however, my friends and I were able to buy a flat of 30 eggs for about half the price of what was available in Pilón. That was one of my gifts to the household that hosted me! I also purchased a variety of vegetables, fruit and seafood during my off-campus stay, so I was probably eating better, in some ways, than my fellow tourists at the hotel.

 

However, I have to note that, thanks to the combined efforts of some of those seasoned travellers and their contact with nearby farmers, resort meals were delightfully supplemented with fresh produce on many occasions! Freshly picked tomatoes, onions and guavas, for example, were brought into the dining room, sliced up and shared in a lovely communal fashion. This was a great work-around for government regulations that make it difficult or impossible for the resort to buy directly from nearby local producers. But, I don’t want to rant about the government!

 

The Cuban government certainly knows that Granma exists. In fact, President Miguel Díaz-Canal came to Pilón while I was there. This was the second time he has been to the area since a set of powerful earthquakes devastated many homes in early November. I saw his helicopters fly by but they didn’t appear to be loaded with cement or other reconstruction materials. Perhaps he’ll send some truckloads later.

 

The president’s choppers had landed near the Mirador, just east of town. From there, he went by motorcade to Pilón, where he briefly visited a couple of locations, allowing the requisite photos to be taken, proving his appearance. I’m not sure if he drove past the uninhabitable apartment building, where tents that are providing temporary homes for families who have no other options. He drove by during his post-quake visit in December, so it wasn’t really necessary to do that again; it looks the same. Afterward, he and his entourage apparently drove on to Niquero. Thus, he would have been able to have a small taste of the regional road conditions that many folks vociferously complain about.

 

 

What I can’t understand is why this part of the country seems to be treated like an ugly, unwanted duckling, when it could grow into a beautiful swan. Some say that there’s a lot of corruption, so funds or supplies are siphoned off before reaching those in need. Others posit that this area is a stronghold for government supporters who decline to accept aid due to a rationale that pertains to not wanting to be a drain on national resources… or something like that. To me, the reason is less important than the outcome: people here are struggling.

 

The Marea del Portillo resort continues to be a significant employer and an important component in the local economy. Although it’s been rebranded as Blue Diamond Resonance, the parent company is still Sunwing. And, in my observation, Sunwing is not behaving like a good parent. Instead of fostering growth, it seems to create obstacles. When the resort was moved from the Club Amigo family to the Blue Diamond chain, children were inexplicably banned.

 

Now, after a significant amount of backlash, the adults-only edict is apparently being rescinded, though exact details are still pending. But, it takes time to reinstate booking/pricing elements on the Sunwing website and elsewhere. Therefore, don’t expect to be able to take your young ones on a holiday there until high season is over. Plan now for next winter!

 

Flights will continue to be via Holguín rather then the closer Manzanillo de Cuba airport, which negates a trip for some people. I understand both sides of this problem. Going to a resort that’s 4.5-5 hours from the airport is a daunting part of any travel agenda. Conversely, the cost of fuel for two landings/take-offs in Cuba, coupled with double airport fees, means that it’s not cost effective for Sunwing to fly into Manzanillo, unless they can fill a 189-seat plane, or come close.

 

So, here we are, well into March, when the resort should be pumping. While I was in the ‘hood, there were about 50 guests, at the most. Arrivals trickled in, even as departures leaked out. With flights via Holguín the flow fluctuates; sometimes only one person or two arrive at a time. But, the hotel-supplied mini-bus or van will dutifully transport all guests, whether you fly with Sunwing, Air Transat or any other entity that sells hotel/flight packages. Therefore, I would encourage you to seek out non-Sunwing options. For this trip, I booked through HolaSun, which uses Air Transat as its carrier. It wasn’t 100% perfect but it was pretty smooth. I would do it again, without hesitation.

 

Let me conclude this long and winding trip report by reassuring you that the Marea del Portillo resort is still beautiful and serene. The staff still provides excellent service and there’s plenty of food for guests, although it may not be as diverse as one might prefer. When there aren’t enough clients to warrant a full buffet, a selection of entrées will be offered, including lobster and salmon, the latter of which is not locally caught but is nicely prepared.

 

So, I would encourage you to go, go, go! The community that relies on the resort desperately needs support. Since I’m not doing much travel agenting these days, though, I would suggest that you to contact my friend Alissa, if you need assistance with booking. She’s known as Alissa Sillygrrl on Facebook but her real name is Alissa Sauder. She can be reached on social media, via email (asauder@travelonly.com) or by phone (226-792-0143). I am hereby passing the Marea del Portillo travel torch to her!

 

I will continue to promote the resort and provide information, of course, but I am stepping away from work in the travel industry. I’m not retiring, just tiring. I want to put my energy into other endeavors instead, including my work as a writer. I have another book coming out later this year, which I will highlight in a future missive.

 

Meanwhile, keep smiling and keep visiting Marea del Portillo, one of the loveliest, most welcoming places in all of Cuba!

 

XO,

Jenny

BONUS PHOTOS!

Here are some random images from my most recent trip to Cuba:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TRIP REPORT: Living on shaky ground

TRIP REPORT for December 2024:
Living on shaky ground

Mother Nature decided to shake things up in Cuba on Nov. 10, and she hasn’t completely stopped her agitation of the situation. A pair of strong earthquakes, topping out at 6.8 on the Richter scale, turned some homes to rubble and severely damaged many structures in Pilón, Marea del Portillo and the surrounding region. The aftershocks have continued since then, but are gradually abating.

Although the tremors could go on for months, they have been lessening in frequency and strength. And, in my limited on-the-ground experience in early December, some jolts seem to be very location specific. On one occasion during my two-week sojourn in Pilón, I felt a single bump, as if someone had briefly grabbed and elevated one leg of my chair, then dropped it to the floor a second later. Meanwhile, across town, the same tremor was sizeable enough to send people fleeing from the polyclinic and other nearby buildings.
 
Naturally, people are fearful. They’ve been traumatized by what they’ve been through – and are enduring. Authorities have assessed homes and declared some of them structurally unsound. Others have been deemed safe for occupancy, despite cracks creeping like vines along the walls. However, people who still have homes don’t necessarily feel safe sleeping indoors, especially those whose residences are in apartment buildings.
 
How much more shaking will your cracked wall withstand? How big will the next quake be, and when will it hit? It’s impossible to predict such things. Some folks are sleeping in the ground-level homes of neighbors and family members or in tents, if available, despite spending necessary time in their apartments during the day. Whenever the ground starts to shake again, though, even people on the first floor often bolt to the yard.
 
And yet, people are coping. They’re getting on with life, as best they can. They’re going to work and attending church. Kids are going to school. They are dealing with the new normal of fear, coupled with continuing power outages and shortages of food and other necessities.
 
Despite the compounded daily struggles, there is a small blossom of optimism in the Marea del Portillo and Pilón area: the resort is open! The recently rebranded Resonance Musique Marea hotel officially reopened as I was heading for the Holguín airport to catch my flight back to Canada in mid December. Thus, unfortunately, I didn’t get to see any ceremonial hoopla, if there was any to see.
 
I think it was what you might call a “soft” reopening. Ever-lamentable Sunwing hadn’t managed to effectively relaunch their renamed resort on its website, which made it appear as if they’d dropped it from the roster. Marea was promotionless. Therefore, not many tourists arrived during that first week. Now, a few weeks later, people are beginning to come in bigger batches.
 
ASIDE: If a heap of money has been spent to renovate and update a resort, one would think the company that manages the place might want to make sure people could easily book a package, wouldn’t one? Sometimes it seems as if Sunwing is trying to slowly kill the Marea resort complex, one coffin nail at a time. However, those who work there and love visiting the place keep pushing the nails out and yelling: “I’m not dead yet!” – to rip a quote from Monty Python’s annals. But, I digress.

The upshot of the Sunwing website booking debacle is that people found other ways to make reservations! Although I don’t completely detest flying with the devil I know, I must say, I am rather looking forward to boarding another airline on my next trip. AirTransat, for example, is providing air service for packages booked with HolaSun, which can be done via their website or through Redtag and other travel resellers. At this point, flights continue to be via Holguín but that means you’re not locked into going/returning on only one day per week. There are more options when flying to/from Holguín!
 
I know the extra travel time is problematic for many people but I look at it as a way to see other parts of the country. In the past, I’ve stayed in Holguin, Bayamo or Manzanillo before or after the flight, either at a casa particular (Cuban B&B) or a resort on the northern coast. This gives me an opportunity to explore Cuba a little more, which I enjoy. There are interesting things to see and do in all three of the aforementioned cities, as well as decent restaurants and hotels, if you prefer that type of accommodation to staying in private homes.
 
Transportation, of course, is a big factor to consider when making travel plans in Cuba. Now that the resort is including transfers from/to the Holguín airport, it usually makes more financial sense to ride along on their bus or van. But, you could arrange something different, if you want.
 
During my early-December trip, the Marea resort wasn’t open, so I made my own arrangements for transportation and accommodation. As well, I ate in restaurants more often than I usually do – and I invited numerous friends and their families to join me. I decided to do so because it would give my friends a break from cooking or worrying about food and it would support small business owners, who are important parts of the local economy. And, it was fun!
 
The fun stuff was an important counterbalance for the non-fun things I saw on this visit to the Granma province. In Pilón, it was shocking and saddening to see the amount of damage wrought by the initial quakes, coupled with the repeated aftershocks. Some structures may never be repaired or replaced. I’m thinking, in particular, of the waterfront park in Pilón. Originally built as a loading dock, when the town was an international shipping port during the sugar cane boom, the massive concrete platform fell into disrepair and sat idle for years. Hurricane Denis, which devastated the area in 2005, also damaged the site.
 
I had been delighted to see that the former wharf was rehabilitated a few years ago and converted into a park. Dubbed “El Espigon,” it quickly became a popular recreational hub for the community. The November 2024 earthquakes caused severe damage, effectively cleaving one wall right through to the underwater foundation. I doubt that it will be salvaged.
 
When I posted photos of the damage on Facebook, one friend commented that she had faith it could be fixed – if anyone could do it, Cubans could! I agree with her sentiment but the stumbling block will be supplies. Even before the quakes, it was extremely difficult for people to get cement, rebar and other key building materials. Now, rather than repairing the malecón park, energy and supplies must be directed to home reconstruction.

A pair of older apartment buildings that are located behind the Sorpresa store, near the highway, sustained the most damage of any of the town’s apartment complexes. Both of them were already in bad shape and, due to the quakes, one building has been condemned for habitation at this time. I had to add that last phrase because, after speaking with someone living in that neighborhood, I learned that the government intends to repair the structure, even though it is visibly crooked.
 
When I’d initially heard the building was “condemned,” I assumed it would be torn down. Instead, officials say they will devise a way to shore it up and make it habitable again. My friend who has confidence in the Cuban ability to fix anything should be pleased! Until the engineers work their magic, though, people can access their apartments during the day but must spend the night elsewhere. Some are occupying tents in the field beside the building that were set up as emergency shelters. Others are staying with family nearby or have left the area.
 
Why would some buildings be so much more badly damaged than others? Why did some homes completely crumble while the house next door is pretty much okay? Those questions rumbled through my mind as I toured around town, doing my own private assessment of the situation. I discussed this with numerous people and the general consensus is that the difference is primarily due to construction materials and foundations. Like the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the foundations of the apartment buildings near the store were not as solid as they should have been. Thus, both structures are sinking unevenly into the ground.
 
Many individual homes that I saw had partially collapsed. Perhaps the still-standing section was built at a different time than the rest and its foundation was better. Maybe the cement blocks in the ruined part were not made as well as they should have been, or there was no rebar available and walls weren’t properly reinforced. Those are my best guesses, as well as the possibility that tremor intensity varies from place to another.

 

Since I was staying in a part of Pilón known as La Trocha, I spent more time walking and biking around that community. Quite a few homes there had been pulverized by the quakes. Some people had left and were not expected to return. For others, that wasn’t an option. One family of four had moved into a ramshackle shed beside their devastated house. They were making do, and are living with dignity and kindness, despite their difficult situation. When I gave them a food package and some money, they insisted on giving me a small bag of ground coffee in thanks. This was a very special gift because, at the time, coffee was scarce in that part of Cuba.
 
I made La Trocha one of my key areas for support on this trip, but I also gave packets of food and medical/health items to people in the leaning apartments and in the villages of Marea del Portillo and Mota. Thanks to the generous donations I received in advance of my trip, I was able to ake quite a lot of supplies, as well as purchase more food at local stores, even though their stock was limited. And, in some cases, I gave people money, which they could use for whatever they decided was needed most.
 
I have already booked my next trip for Feb. 22 and, leading up to it, I will be consulting with friends in Cuba to find out what is most needed at that point. So far, one of the things on my “must take” list is more tuna! My dried tuna seems to be a cost-effective hit. Although tuna is often available in Cuban stores, it is more expensive to buy it there, and you can’t count on it always being available. Dehydrated tuna is a lightweight protein source that can easily be added to rice or a pasta sauce. I’m glad that my “invention” was appreciated enough to be requested again!

Due to the Canadian postal strike, one generous donation was not delivered until well after my December trip. That much-appreciated USD check will provide a good start for buying tuna (in bulk), acetaminophen and ibuprofen, hygiene and healthcare products, as well as rechargeable lights or any other inexpensive but useful items I come across.
 
Before my last trip, my dental office gave me several boxes of small tubes of toothpaste, floss and a few brushes – all of which were welcomed by the Cuban recipients! In fact, I gave out many of those items during my road trip with the cultural brigade sent out from Pilón to lift the spirits of children in the surrounding rural communities. These outreach activities were quite well organized and typically included a phalanx of musicians, a poet/storyteller and a clown. The kids definitely enjoyed it, as did their parents!
 
It may be difficult to get supplies these days, but it isn’t hard to cheer people up a little – send in the clowns, tell stories, play music! Yes, Cubita bella is struggling right now but I have great confidence in the resilient people of that beautiful isle to overcome their hardships. They may be living on shaky ground in many ways but, like my friend said, they can fix anything.

XO ~ Jenny

 

 

BONUS PHOTOS! 

 

Here are some extra photos from my road trip to Mota with the cultural brigade, plus 

a beauty shot of cows enjoying the sunset from their pasture in the hills above Pilón. 

And, last but not least, the lovely view at Punta Hicacos, one of my favorite beaches.