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My Feb. 26, 2014, trip to Club Amigo Marea del Portillo and
Farallon del Caribe was not my first visit to this charming little Cuban
resort.
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| Returnees have privileges! |
I want to be up-front about that because it’s an important
point – I am a “repeater.” I will not give a one-off critique of a place I
happened to stay at once because it was cheap; I will provide an honest
commentary about why I keep going to this resort and what has changed since I
began visiting in 2009.
I am a repeat guest at this resort for several reasons.
First, as many people note in other reviews, the scenery is phenomenal. Located
on the southern sole of Cuba, in the historically significant province of
Granma, this resort is on the rim of a peaceful bay, on the cusp of the Sierra
Maestra Mountains. Do you prefer the mountains or the ocean? Here, you don’t
have to choose – it’s the best of both worlds!
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| Cayo Blanco is an ever-popular excursion - sail, kayak, snorkel or just hang out on the lovely beach. |
You can go swimming, kayaking or sailing from the back porch
of the hotel, so to speak. But, if you’d rather go for a hike, just head out a
different door of the hotel and hit the trail. Or, if you want to simply sit
and relax, you can watch the sun rise over the mountains and/or set over the
ocean. If lazing about isn’t your cup of rum, however, you can take a bike
trek, go for a horseback ride, participate in one of the many interesting
excursions the resort offers, or just explore on your own.
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| Artist Ramon Cisnero in front of one of his many sculptures in Manzanillo de Cuba. |
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| I bought this print from Pedro Guillermo Guerra Tamayo during the Manzanillo Art Tour - then learned I had purchased a painting of his at a Toronto exhibit! |
There are options available for anyone of any fitness level.
That is another reason to like this resort – it has something for everyone.
There are the usual sorts of poolside activities, of course, but there are also
opportunities to learn about the community and culture. You can take a tour of
local villages, visit a farm, go on a “Jeep” excursion (in Suzuki 4X4s) or take
the Manzanillo Art Tour – a new day-trip that was launched while I was there in
February. And, if you like local art and crafts, be sure take a stroll to the
rotary at the resort’s main entrance; you’ll find a nice selection of souvenir
booths there almost every day. Crafts are also intermittently available by the
pool at each hotel.
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| The "Titanic" skit is quite funny! |
Not sufficiently entertained yet? Well, don’t miss the
evening entertainment that’s offered at both hotels – the Marea and the
Farallon (which is open in high season only). These shows are high-energy
variety nights that generally include live music, comedy and dancing. As a
repeat guest, I can tell you there are some consistent elements and schticks
but there are also new skits, new dance routines and new costumes on display
every year, as well as new bands that feature some incredibly talented local
musicians. As well, for those who want to party into the night, there’s a disco
on the beach, where the d.j. will take requests.
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| I prefer to stay the cabañas (shown here) because they are level with the beach and generally quieter. |
I can also tell you, as someone who has been paying
attention over the years, that this little resort has been working hard to make
annual physical improvements. This past year, for instance, they did a major
overhaul of the Marea Hotel dining room, and it looks great! They’ve created a
new a la carte restaurant at the Farallon Hotel, added more outdoor beach showers
and patios at the Marea Hotel, upgraded the Marea cabañas and enhanced the
grounds in general. It just keeps getting better, each and every year!
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| The Marea Hotel pool is adjacent to the entertainment centre, and there are plenty of seats. |
Other improvements include more shaded seating at the Marea
poolside snackbar, as well as more choices of snacks (although supplies do
sometimes run low). The food at the resort, in general, has improved over the
years, in my opinion. There’s more variety at the buffets and the new steamer
tables at the renovated Marea dining room keep things hotter. My best repeat-guest
dining tip is this: be sure to check what they’ve got on the grill before
filling your plate at the buffet. The grills at both hotels always have the
freshest, hottest meat, and sometimes vegetables too.
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| The Farallon Hotel pool is larger than Marea's and has a swim-up bar. Both offer afternoon activities. |
Here’s another repeater tip: book the VIP package. It is
available with Superior Rooms at the Farallon or Cabañas at the Marea, which
are the only two hotels in the main complex – the Punta Piedra Hotel is
technically part of the resort but is actually located 5 km down the road. The
VIP package includes two trips to an idyllic island called Cayo Blanco, a
lobster meal, a Sunset Cruise, free use of the in-room wall safe, etc. You can
pay for these options separately after you arrive but, if you do the math,
you’re better off being a VIP, which must be booked in advance.
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| Some produce on the hotels' buffets is grown locally. |
The physical stuff aside, there’s another compelling reason
to return to Marea del Portillo time and again: the people. I’m not just
talking about the resort staff; I’m also referring to the community surrounding
the facility. According to my own observation, reading and conversations with
others, the people in this part of Cuba are some of the warmest, most welcoming
folks in the entire island.
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| Excellent towel origami. |
Maybe it’s just good, old-fashioned southern hospitality.
Perhaps it’s because they aren’t as over-run with tourists as other parts of
the country and, therefore, aren’t tainted by the inundation. I don’t know.
Whatever it is, I like it. I appreciate the opportunity to chat with the locals
and get to know their culture in a more up-close and personal way – not just
observing life through a bus window!
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| A Marea del Portillo toast with birthday-girl Wendy, one of my repeat group members. |
Why do I keep returning to this obscure resort in a rather
remote, rural part of Cuba? I’ve fallen in love with the people, as well as the
place itself. I feel at home here – peaceful, happy and safe. Guests are not
warned to stay on the grounds; they are encouraged to explore the area and consider
Marea del Portillo their second home. For many people who visit this resort
regularly, it is a place of healing and rejuvenation, which is why they keep
coming back. The rate of repeat clients here is among the highest in Cuba.
Club Amigo Marea del Portillo and Farallon del Caribe may be
rated as a three-star resort but I consider that a mere technicality. People
say ‘you get what you pay for’ but, here, I truly believe you get more
than you pay for!
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| Gorgeous sunrises and sunsets are always included free of charge at Marea del Portillo, Cuba! |
